Saturday, May 14, 2011

The Sheykh Wore Silver Shoes

Today we visited the Bedouin village of Umm el-Hierin the Negev Desert in southern Israel.  Although it's definitely a village, you won't find it on GoogleMaps, nor on any other map.  It's what's known as an unrecognized village, of which there are many in the Negev.  There are also a handful of recognized villages there.  So what difference does it make to the Bedouin, except for the fact that no one can get Mapquest directions to come see you? Unrecognized villages are not allowed access to running water, electricity or sewage services.  They are citizens of Israel.  Though not compulsory, many of their sons serve in the Israeli army.  But they must choose between abandoning their ancestral lands or living without basic services.  In our meeting with the head of the village, we found a warm and gregarious man who was deeply frustrated by his plight, yet didn't portray bitterness.  When asked questions about his views on regional events in Egypt, Tunisia, and elsewhere, or when pressed on his position on West Bank and Gaza Palestinians, he demurred, refusing to be drawn in to larger issues. He is staking his entire claim on the fact that his family has lived and farmed in this area for 500 years and that he is now a full citizen of the State of Israel, and as such he is entitled to the same rights and responsibilities of all citizens, regardless of race, religion or ethnicity.  He wants to clean water, electricity, and a flush toilet for himself, his family, and the people of his village.  Makes sense to me. 

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